Robert Fisk

The Independent's veteran Middle East correspondent has returned to Iraq after a few months at his home in Beirut.

It was the same lunatic corkscrew landing in the same little Lebanese plane, barrelling down into the sandstorm of Baghdad airport. Piloting his 20-passenger twin-prop aircraft - from Flying Carpet Airlines, no less - Captain Hussam has three things on his mind: American helicopters, pilotless reconnaissance drones and incoming missiles. So we all scan the dun-coloured runway and terminals and the grotty slums beside the airport road for the tell-tale pink flame surviving pilots have sometimes caught sight of.

They made it, and the ride from the airport to the hotel was uneventful, as well. So he went to the grocery store. Read all about it.

Then read his story about why they hate us.

Fisk has a different perspective from that of most of U.S. reporters.